What up folks!  Thanks for hanging in there while I was on walkabout for the last 7 weeks.  We had a blast showing the Progression Project film around the country and hanging with friends and family.  A huge thanks to everyone that hosted events, came out to see the project, lent me surfboards in strange places and shared food and drinks with the family.  It was an amazing experience for our whole clan.

That said.  Damn! it feels good to be home!!!  After touring half the US, and there are some beautiful places, I am 100% stoked on living here in Nosara.  There are some waves I loved, great people, cool towns, and warm water, but there’s nowhere that puts it all together.  So, you’ve got a stoked E writing today.

It’s gonna be a short one, as I’m working to prepare the release of the Progression Project.  I’m coordinating with some sites/mags and we’re shooting for Monday!  But I did take some time to surf the last 2 days.

Here’s some progression notes –

The new Hobie 7.7 x 24 is magic.  It’s as close to the board I’ve been dreaming about as I may ever get.  Going narrow and pushing volume to the center was 100% what I expected.  You don’t notice the volume but you fully feel the thin rails and thin width.  And with the center width at 24 we were able to get a small tail without too much pull on the rail.  (Think the 7.4 JP, where you have a small tail but it’s 27 wide so the template pulls in too far and the board is too loose, there’s a disconnect between center rail and tail)  The board feel amazing and with the hard rails and smaller tail I think I’ll actually be able to surf it better with smaller fins.  I’ve been using the Colin McPhillips set, which are my favorites for most SUPs, but on my next session I might try some AM2s or the like.

I’m also giving this first reaction to the Hobie 12 pounds heavier than what I had her shaped for…. Yep, I put on a whopping 12 pounds in the states over 2 months.  The combination of awesome food, awesome beer and not too much surfing did me in, and I enjoyed all of it!   That was a sidebar, but the fact that I’m paddling the 83L  at 86Kg says a few things.

  • That the techniques I drilled on for the last few months really did work, and anyone can learn them.
  • That surface area is more important than I thought for riding smaller volume boards.  I’m sure that the 7.7 factors in heavily to my ability to paddle a -3L board.

My hypothesis going in to having the L41 and Hobie shaped was that all volume isn’t equal.  That depending on where you place volume it will have different effects on surfing performance and that what really matters are the outline and rails.  You can pack volume into the center of a board with little consequence to feel.

Over the next few weeks I’ll be breaking down pros/cons of these 2 very different boards.  The idea was same volume, distributed very differently.  7.7 x 24 at 83L  vs. 6.10 x 26.5 at 85L.  It’s gonna be a fun project!

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