- When shortboarding or paddle surfing you’re able to generate speed much easier than on a single fin. Aggressive, ugly pumping on a shortboard, and aggressive, even uglier paddling on a standup will carry you though flat sections with speed and allow you to work outside of the wave’s power. Donna isn’t having any of that. Stay in the pocket or it gets awkward pretty quick.
- Bottom turning is a forgotten art. And it’s insanely fun. I thought I was doing an ok job of getting out in front of the wave and setting up decent bottom turns, but it turns out I wasn’t anywhere close to what’s possible. I’ve watched Colin seemingly wait minutes cruising into the flats before getting the board on rail, but haven’t ever felt it. Thought I was doing it, but wasn’t. Forcing Donna back into the pocket and feeling all that carry out to the flats is amazing. Gives a completely different perspective of the wave. Also amazing how far you can push the turn in flat water.
- Less is more. Speed on Donna is about positioning and then patience. Pick your line and then trust it. I’m carry long sections by high lining with almost zero adjustment. It’s a different feeling for me.
Some of you may be wondering if the journal is going to turn away from paddle surfing… don’t worry, it isn’t. It will include what I’m learning on the style and the decision framework. And, we’ll be bringing some new video features here soon. Fisher has come on board to do some video editing and we’ve got a massive archive that he is currently sifting through to bring out lessons and insights that we’ll share in the near future.
I’m also sitting on 5 recorded podcasts that I haven’t had the time to produce yet. Next up will be a month recap with Fisher Grant and an interview with Tristan Boxford, CEO of the Waterman League and the World Tour, which is on for 2017!
The other three episodes are for the new Progression Project Podcast, focused more on deep understanding, passion and learning. So far Garret Dutton (AKA G Love), Anders Ericsson (Author of Peak), and Aaron Peirsol (3x Olympic Gold medal swimmer) have recorded. That show will debut in a few weeks! Stoked!!!
Thanks for hanging in there with me and stay tuned for an awesome run of awesome… awesome!!! E