What up paddle surf freaks! I’m all jazzed today for a few reasons… Surf was pumping. Unexpectedly so. Showed up to a dawny with overhead lines from our best direction and a 4mph offshore. Today I’m producing the Kai Lenny episode which is a good one. We talk a lot about Kai’s motivation, competitive drive and mindset… Kid is an inspiration for sure. I’m super excited to release it. It will come out on iTunes tonight and tomorrow on the site. So if you haven’t subscribed to the show, do it.
For readers that have just started following with the progression journal, you probably haven’t seen some of the earlier guides. Some good info here. Frontside bottom turn, Backside slingshot bottom turn, Frontside slingshot cutback
Notes from today’s surf… I changed deck pads on the 7.4 starboard and it was a much bigger mind-freak than I expected. I guess you become so accustomed to the feeling of where you are on the board that for 3 waves I felt lost and actually looked down a couple times to see where I was on the board. Interesting that it has never been a conscious thought of aligning my feet on the pad in a certain way, and I couldn’t articulate it, but I know it well enough internally to have it mess me up… Brings up something I’ve been thinking on a lot lately, the unconscious process of learning and our normal daily habits and biases that we don’t know exist. Some back story: I got heavy into Wim Hof training for a while, basically a breath workout with some empty lung holds, absolutely loved it, but then found it wasn’t the best for you. But, I was so into taking 20-30 minutes out each day to focus the mind that I switched it up for meditation. I’ve meditated for a bit, but never taken it seriously. I’m at about 30 days in a row now, serious, and the conscious vs. unconscious process is becoming a bit more clear. So much of learning is learning to get out of our own way.
I have a love/hate relationship with the starboard. I LOVE it whenever I get a steep section… and I don’t like it near as much if the wave gets fat or I have to clear a long section. Here’s the funny thing… Photos of the board look incredible! It works so well in critical sections. I think this gives me a post surf bias towards the board as when you review photos or look back on sessions it makes the session look better than it felt. Video doesn’t lie as much, and you can see those awkward moments. I’m dreaming up my next custom… gonna be a 7.5 x 25 at 82L with the rails thinned out and the thickness in the middle. Like the boards Pat is shaping Mo.
Ok, I’m off to produce a show for you guys… More tutorials coming tomorrow. I decided to focus on a few beginning turns in the next week.
Also! I’ll do a podcast here soon to answer you’re surfing or technical questions. I’ve gotten a lot of emails asking for more general, less “tip of the spear” discussion. So, email me your questions and I’ll do a show where I just answer them when I get enough to have a show. Maybe I’ll get Colin or Justin on the show to do it with me…
Enjoy your week freaks!!! E