What’s up folks! Been a crazy couple days. The Kai Lenny episode of the podcast dropped yesterday and I’m finalizing a couple magazine articles that will be coming out in the next few months. The Progression Project movie should be out here in late June if everything goes to plan…
On to the journal… surf was good this morning, whereas yesterday was 4ft. at 15, today was 3.5 at 14… That difference was enough to take the umf out of the waves. And where the starboard was excelling in the steeper, faster conditions, today I got to see its downside a few times. Slow and sluggish in flat sections and digging rails on drawn out cutbacks. I contend that it’s not a surfboard. Not in the traditional sense. Starboard gets 95% of it right… construction is top level, float for size is the best around, and performance off the tail is as good as it gets… but, when you have to engage that front section of the board on a lazy wave it just doesn’t come around.
After being frustrated on a few cutbacks today, I came home and broke down some footage of Colin McPhillips. He does that cutback better than anyone and I wanted to see if I was missing something. It will make a good journal, so here you go… (more…)
Morning… Ro emailed in last night with a few questions that I’m sure are relevant to most folks, so I’ll answer them here. Bout to go get a surf! And drop a new podcast this afternoon… Will Taylor, editor of SUP the Mag did the show a few weeks ago, and I’m finally wrapping that episode up. If you’re not subscribed to the podcast, it is the best way to listen… Subscribe on iTunes and then you’ll be notified when an episode releases. Sometimes I’ll get the show up a few days before I get it on the website, so you’ll know first… Enjoy, E
you have opened my mind thinking about surf stance vs race, plus getting back enough. Going down to 110l my natural instict put me from the original feet parallel on big boards to a race style stance to help with the lower volume and shorter board at 8′. When on a wave i then step back and accross. So now i read your article and light bulb on i can forsee the advantages to feet on stringer, then just step back into it. SO a couple of questions, do you always paddle surf style, i.e. with your feet on the stringer or just when getting ready to paddle into a wave? if you are always in surf stance do you paddle both sides or just the one?
Episode 6 of the podcast features our first returning guest, Colin McPhillips. After Colin’s first episode aired I received a number of emails asking for Colin to come back on and go deeper into technical aspects of paddle enhanced surfing. I asked, he agreed, and Episode 6 is now live…
On the show Colin and I discuss our favorite SUP surfing videos (most linked to in the show notes below), how to get out at beach breaks on bigger days and our vocabulary/terminology…. Do we need our own vernacular?
The third point is something I want folks to start thinking about… We have a sport that is 80% similar to surfing, but because we use a paddle the maneuvers do not correlate 100%. Currently, we are trying to fit surfing terminology on top of paddle enhanced surfing, and it doesn’t fit. Moving forward, how should we define our sport? Without defined maneuvers it is hard to have technical discussions about progression. Just a thought.
Of note from the episode is the announcement of PaddleWoo’s Pro-Am Video Contest, with Media Partner Standup Journal! PaddleWoo is hosting a Video Contest with a Guaranteed $3,000 cash purse and the top Amateur spot wins a free week here in Costa Rica, daily pro video sessions and local knowledge… everything except airfare. (full details on the contest will be available very soon)
Listen and Enjoy!
- 0:45 – Welcome to the show! Colin McPhillips is here to discuss technical ways to get out in bigger surf.
- 1:30 – Big Announcement Teaser!
- 1:50 – Inclusion of Mo Freitas (possible future guest???)
- 2:30 – Erik and Colin Talk Videos, what videos pop out?
- 3:05 – Stand Up Paddle Move (Laird, Kalama, McPhillips) – http://www.standuppaddlemovie.com/Stand_Up_Paddle_Movie/A_Stand_Up_Paddle_Movie_Home_949-493-6155.html
- 4:30 – Kai Lenny’s SUP Movie – http://www.poorboyzstore.com/dvd/sup-movie-dvd-blu-ray-combo
- 5:20 – Power rail surfing vs. flicky turns (do boards define how you surf?) – are we limited by design?
- 6:30 – Keahi de Aboitiz – 7.4 JP, small beach break – https://youtu.be/EO-It3MNO1g
- 7:40 – Keahi in Indo Part 1 – https://youtu.be/v5GzZ12IvcI
- 8:10 – Is Keahi riding the production 7.4 in those videos? Erik bets no, looks thinner with less rocker
- 8:50 – How does he get those barrels without slipping in the barrel? What fins? (gotta get Keahi on the show!)
- 9:30 – Colin educates us on side slipping in barrels on bigger boards.
- 10:10 – Erik talks setting up barrels and waves way ahead of time on a SUP
- 11:00 – If you’re not putting yourself in the right place before you take off on the wave, you’re already behind the 8 Ball
- 13:20 – Kai Lenny Air Reverse Video – https://youtu.be/14KicUHmscs
- 14:00 – Caio Vaz’s huge air in the wave pool
- 14:30 – Caio and Ian Vaz Nias – https://youtu.be/YlwgocTtd4g, VazBrothers Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/user/TheVazBrothersTV
- 17:30 – Are there surfing riding very low volume ratios who are tall? Sean and Mo are both about 5.10. – Colin says Mo’s skills are unreal for paddling
- 19:00 – PaddleWoo’s BIG ANNOUNCEMENT!!!! The PaddleWoo Video Contest. Prizes for both Pro and Amateurs. $3,000 Cash Prize overall, and Top Amateur Prize is a free week in Costa Rica (excluding airfare)
- 21:00 – Colin calls out Fisher and Kieren Grant, wants to see their videos
- 21:40 – Little McPhillips entry??? Will they make Colin film?
- 22:15 – Colin says the week in CR is worth more than the top cash prize.
- 23:00 – Videos have to be original and fresh. You need to have music rights.
- 24:20 – Surfing caliber is more important than production value
- 25:00 – Colin McPhillips agrees to be a judge live on the show
- 26:00 – Colin calls out Poenaiki Raioha
- 27:15 – Conversation gets technical on getting out in big surf at a beach break
- 28:00 – Colin’s favorite move is to shoot the board over the whitewater, it doesn’t work for Erik. Colin explains why… mostly timing
- 30:30 – When you let your board just go you run the risk of breaking boards
- 31:00 – Colin and Erik both use 6 foot leashes. Colin uses On a Mission 6ft. comp leashes. Erik swears by Ocean and Earth Premium 6ft.
- 33:00 – In Cali, at home, Colin doesn’t wear a leash too much
- 33:30 – Colin explains that it makes him a better surfer to surf without a leash, the challenge sharpens the skills
- 34:40 – Tactic – longboard move of sitting down with the nose up and letting the foam hit the board and pop over. Only works on bigger boards
- 35:30 – If you do get caught right by the lip, just try to get your board out of the impact area.
- 36:40 – Get your board parallel to the lip so if it does get hit by the lip it is on a stronger axis
- 37:20 – Standing duck dives… more of a novelty, they get you super worked if done wrong
- 39:00 – Tactics for swimming with your paddle
- 40:00 – Where do you hold your paddle when paddling prone
- 42:40 – Do you use your paddle when your underwater getting destroyed? Can it be helpful?
- 44:00 – Erik tells a story about almost knocking his head off
- 44:30 – It’s surprising how easy it is to hold a paddle underwater in turbulence
- 45:00 – Pushing off the bottom with your paddle when you’re getting held down
- 46:00 – Last topic of the episode – Vocabulary/Terminology for Paddle Enhanced Surfing
- 49:40 – Backside vs. Frontside, Colin calls out Giorgio Gomez for the video contest, says he has incredible backside game
- 51:15 – Starboard’s better backside??? Because of weight?
- 51:40 – Colin really likes light boards.
- 52:40 – Erik says he’s confused about what board to ride next weekend in the contest here, Colin says bring 3 and pick one and go with it…
- 54:00 – Colin love Boca Barranca, Fiesta Hotel
- 56:00 – Colin bought a jet ski back in the day just for point breaks, Erik’s wife is against Erik getting one
- 57:40 – Colin gets so stoked talking about surfing that he has to go out there and surf… Last thoughts from Colin are go get some incredible footage for the contest!
“Why am I turning so weak and going so slow” – Colin McPhillips on shortboard surfing
“If you are going to have more fun riding the front door off of your house, why not, give it a go” – Colin on close minded surfers
“You can’t have too much power or too much strength on a standup.” – Colin
Colin McPhillips Show Notes:
- 0:55 – Colin’s background in surfing, world titles, and intro to SUP surfing
- 3:30 – Colin talks about his first SUP board, an 11’6”
- 5:30 – First good wave at Dog Patch
- 6:15 – Seeing surfing from the eye’s of a beginner
- 7:15 – The fun of bettering yourself
- 8:00 – How is the vibe in the water for SUP surfing in San Clemente
- 8:30 – Trestles is off limits to SUPs. Paddles are considered water vechicles
- 10:40 – The feeling of surfing small waves with a paddle
- 11:30 – For Colin McPhillips, SUP surfing is a family affair
- 13:00 – ISA World SUP games, Dave Boehne, Sean Poynter
- 13:50 – Colin’s thoughts on Mo Freitas and Ian Vaz’s boards
- 15:50 – SUP surfing contest judging, paddle usage in surfing
- 17:45 – Erik and Colin talk body size, strength and power in SUP surfing
- 19:00 – SUP stigma in lineups, close minded surfers, what will it take for surfers to give it a try
- 21:00 – Luke Egan and Rob Machado hop on SUPs, what top level surfers could do on a SUP if they really gave it a go
- 22:00 – Erik’s bet to folks who give him a hard time in the water
- 23:45 – Hobie Raw SUP boards. Factory Sizes, Custom Orders, Longboard Series
- 25:40 – What Colin is riding now, a custom 100L longboard SUP (9.0 x 3.75 x 27)
- 27:20 – Colin won the Longboard division at Carolina Cup
- 28:00 – New ideas on design, shorter, narrower longboard SUPs
- 29:30 – Erik and Colin talk about how they met and how Erik got into SUP surfing
- 30:50 – Erik talks his new board that just arrived, a 7.7 x 26 x 4 at 86L
- 31:30 – Traction pads vs. wax, water temp, river mouths, rough decks
- 32:40 – Paddles, cutting them shorter, 2 inches shorter than height, flex for surfing
- 35:30 – Happy Birthday Colin, How long can you be a pro surfer, future plans, SUP gave Colin another career
- 37:00 – Folks who just got into SUP for profit, the SUP bandwagon
- 38:00 – Colin’s thoughts on SUP as a whole, 3 different sports
- 39:30 – Everyone who gets on a SUP eventually wants to ride waves, it’s the best thing you can do
- 41:00 – How old is SUP as a sport, how old is Paddle Enhanced Surfing as a sport
- 43:00 – Thinning out rails on shorter, thicker boards
- 44:00 – Where the current batch of pro SUP surfers came from, other sports, what will attract more surfers into the sport
- 46:45 – Strength for SUP surfing vs shortboarding, kettlebells, leverage of the paddle
- 49:00 – SUP surfing’s early days of choppy surfing, now athletes are starting to surf on the rail
- 50:00 – When is Colin coming back down to Costa Rica to BlueZoneSUP.com to run another camp? June/July
- 51:00 – Erik talks about being very scared at a local reef during the early May huge swell
- 52:45 – Colin’s big wave board, the coastal cruiser
- 53:45 – Colin’s closing thoughts, keep getting out there and having fun