Quick notes from the session this morning.
The finals for the Costa Rica SUP contest series are this weekend. It was going to be the 25th, but they moved it up. Didn’t know until yesterday. So while I’ve been trying all these fin configurations and staying focused on understanding balance, I really should have been focused on surfing and cardio. I feel like I’m surfing at a decent level and I’ve been swimming every night with the groms, so I should be fine. It’s just not how I normally approach a contest.
I’ve got a dilemma for the contest. Not sure what board to ride. Right now it’s super small, which would make me opt for more volume. I’d also opt for more volume if it I think it’s going to be choppy, which it likely will. But, I’ve only been surfing the smaller Starboard and it usually takes me a few days to get a board dialed in. The X factor this weekend is that we have the new swell showing up sometime between Saturday morning and Sunday. It should hit hard, and the beach holding the event is Playa Hermosa, a heavy beach break. It would be perfect for the Starboard if the swell shows up.
This morning I decided to ride the Infinity to try and get a feel for it in case the waves are small and/or choppy. After the conversation about fins with Tyler I decided to try a small trailer set of quads – it was terrible. They were too small and I came in and switched them out after two waves to the GL center. Immediately felt way better.
30 minutes into the session I was surfing good. I feel a massive difference in speed off the bottom backside, Starboard vs. Infinity. Frontside I transition my surfing to focus on rail turns, so the speed off the bottom isn’t needed as much, but backside rail turns aren’t as powerful and it’s better to surf top-to-bottom for points in a contest. If I decide to surf the Infinity I’ll be opting for rights unless we get some size.
The other difference is in stability. After a month on the 7.4 I felt like I couldn’t fall. There’s something to be said for being fully confident in your stability and having a bit more speed to be right in the money spot when you catch a wave. Ha… in writing this I think I’m convincing myself to surf the bigger board. That’ll probably change before tomorr0w.
I did spend time today working on balance and paddling heel-side. Here’s a thought. I’m not sure the J stroke makes as much of a difference in paddling straight as keeping your rail in the water. Toe vs. heel-side, I’m able to keep the board angled more toe-side while paddling on that side and I think the rail holds the line and helps paddling straight. Heel-side I’m just starting to be able to paddle with the rail in the water and I notice a difference in the amount of strokes I’m able to do before switching sides because of direction. Just jotting this down and I’ll try to prove if it’s true over the next few sessions.
Today’s journal will be short one. The video call with Tyler of FCS is coming up here in an hour, so I’m preparing the discussion. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. There were a few common themes, so those will definitely be addressed: Tail width’s effects on fins, Quad vs. Thruster -when/why, What should we be riding in bigger surf, and smaller surf.
Some notes on today’s session. My focus continued to be on stability, and the understanding of what’s really going on. I’m reframing the lens to focus on controlled falling, not balance, and it’s allowed me to see a bit deeper.
The big find this morning was how I adjust rail weighting. The idea of slowly falling to your paddle side means keeping slightly more weight on that rail. I discovered that I do this by controlling weight on the outside rail by using my toes/ball of my foot.
Picture this. Paddle is toe side. Your foot on the toe-side rail, I’m regular foot, so my right foot, will be grounded from heel to toe on the board. This is the anchor foot. The outside rail foot is the adjustment foot and you’re controlling the board with that foot, using your calf and leg. I notice this for the first time today and then watched it, paddling on both sides, for the rest of the session.
I drilled paddling heel-side. I’m falling or missing waves while turning to the right to catch waves as they’re sucking up – digging the nose every once in a while. Working on adjusting balance to stay farther on the heel rail, it still feels awkward,but getting it at times. Also started working on the J stroke that Connor Baxter talks about on his podcast heel-side. That’s been my crutch toe-side – it is great be able to paddle on one side for as long as you want.
We’ve got a long way to go on understanding stability and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the matter. Everything I’m writing about is just personal experience, and I’m sure there are better practices out there that I’d love to know about – so help me out!
If you’re new to the discussion here’s a few links:
Floaters and Late Drops
There are distinct disadvantages to paddle surfing. I’m a believer that the positives outweigh the negatives in a big way, but there’s no getting around that duck-diving and tight turns in small pockets are better on shortboards. But surfing today and watching a few friends fall on floaters in weird conditions, I’m putting floaters and late drops in the SUP column.
Let’s start with floaters. Floaters are one of the first maneuvers you’ll learn in surfing. They’re simple – go down the line, when the wave is about to break aim towards the lip, ride up and let the wave push you down.
But as waves get bigger and you’re going faster, they become more difficult. Speed and projection play a huge part, as you have to time the lip coming down to avoid the explosion that will knock you off and possibly ruin an ankle or knee.
The beautiful advantage we have with a paddle in our hands is that we have the ability to hurl ourselves into the flats and over the explosion. So, even if you miss the timing, you have the power to launch to safety. The technique is similar to the paddle stroke Mo Freitas uses to prepare for a bottom turn. You pull with all your might towards the beach, turning in that direction at the same time. I’ll find some video and photos to break that down in the future.
The same holds true for late drops. The paddle allows us to create out own momentum horizontal and forward instead of gravity pulling us down. A few years ago, when I was just getting into the sport, a friend showed me a video of Dave Kalama catching a wave that was already breaking and floatering the drop. I thought it was an impossible maneuver. Now I do it at times. If you can paddle horizontal to the wave and time the lip pitching out, you just pull yourself into a floater and drop the wave. You have the paddle to stabilize the landing and engage the bottom turn.
That’s what I love about paddle surfing – the technical subtlety that the paddle brings to the art. Surfer’s who hate on it just don’t understand what’s going on, it’s not their fault. We’ve got to show them – Or not and continue our advantage in the water 🙂
I started the progression journal to stay focused on deliberate practice in surfing. The goal was to ensure hard work and focus on specific skills during each session. It worked at the beginning. Each morning, as I stretched watching the waves, I’d determine what my goal for the day was going to be, and how I planned to practice.
What I didn’t anticipate was that daily writing and the need for ideas would force me to examine surfing in a different way. It has forced me to become an objective observer of the art. I am attempting to gain conscious understanding into unconscious processes by noticing details and techniques that I’ve done for years but never thought about. And today, through this process, I uncovered why I have more stability paddling on my toe side.
My objectives in the water this morning were the same as yesterday given the difficult conditions for stability. I chose to ride a small board and focus on balance, specifically heel side paddling. The mental focus was on watching and feeling the rails and how I did or didn’t remain stable. The process of balancing isn’t a conscious practice – it lives deeper – and my goal this morning was to understand it to a higher level.
What I discovered is that while paddling on my more-stable toe side, I correct balance very subtly with adjustments at the beginning of the stroke return. I’d guess that in 40-60% of strokes I finish with a very slight pull forward with emphasis right or left to correct balance and buy time until I get the blade in the water again. It might just be the way in which I stop the stroke and blade angle. At a basic level, I get my nose out of the water and my board directly under my feet.
I also discovered that I do not use this technique while paddling on my heel side. In observing balance for the full session, I didn’t once notice a micro-adjustment on the heel side while paddling. In fact, if I noticed that there was a section of chop coming, I anticipated it and switched sides to prepare.
My hypothesis for why I don’t have the skill heel side would be similar to why we only write with one hand. You have a need, you practice and learn a skill to fill that need, it works, and you don’t need to go through the trouble to learn it on the other side. It’s much easier to know I have balance toe side and switch if I feel unstable than to completely relearn a skill that I’ve likely been developing for a year or two.
Note: Since the Connor Baxter podcast, I’ve doubled down on toe side paddling learning how to paddle circles both ways while keeping the paddle on the toe side.
It’s fine to default to a strong side – I probably caught a ton of extra waves by deferring to the toe side, and my goal has been paddle surfing, not paddle technique – but it isn’t always possible. I have a 50% higher likelihood of falling while paddling for a wave on my heel side. The normal pattern of a fall is as follows: everything seems lined up correctly and then, just when the wave starts to push, I dig my heel side rail.
I’m not sure if addressing micro-adjustment on heel side paddling will aide balance. Maybe it isn’t possible in a semi-surf or full surf stance. But I’m going to explore the heel side stroke at more detailed level in the next few weeks and report back.
I’m also eager to expand this observation to other areas of life to see if similar patterns emerge. I’d love to hear your ideas and observations below in the comments.
Maximize your day folks! Erik
It was August when I first saw Kieran and Fisher Grant squat out the back while waiting for waves. Upon arriving in the lineup there’s that awkward moment when you decide whether to stand, paddle around or sit down. If you’ve been reading, you know I’m an advocate of sitting, assimilating into the tribe, but it’s not aways graceful to get down on your board. And sometimes there might be a set coming and you don’t want to fully commit to sitting.
In comes the squat. That perfect blend between sitting and standing, assimilating into the lineup and being ready for the set.
This is normal paddle stance, approaching the lineup.
The first movement in the squat is to move up on your board. When your squatting your nose is well underwater, tail sticking out. To move forward you’ll move your front foot first, then follow with he back foot. The picture above is front foot already up and back foot in the process. Compare photo 1 to 2 for difference in foot position.
Back foot has joined front foot forward on the board and your weight is coming forward. Your back foot should be a touch behind your front foot, but more parallel than surf stance.
The objective is to sink your board, nose first. Notice the paddle moving into a horizontal position. It will be your balance. If you have slick wax on your board, or a bad traction pad you’ll like have the board slip out backwards a few times when you’re learning this part of the technique. I prefer traction to wax in warmer water.
Nose is sinking, paddle balancing the squat.
I like this angle as it shows how to use the paddle for balance. The goal is to keep your paddle underwater. I hold the blade at a 45 degree angle so you have balance front to back and side to side.
This is the full squat. The more underwater you can be, the more balance you’ll have and less energy it will take. So play around with how far forward you like sitting. I was riding a 9.0 Hobie Longboard SUP the other day and realised I could still squat, but needed to be 3/4 of the way to the nose to do it.
Contest paddle surfers like this maneauver because it’s still technically standing. I use it constantly in our contests here in Costa Rica because our rules state you have to be standing the entire time. And riding a small board for a 20m heat and a 5 or 10m paddle out and standing the whole time is a huge energy drain.
Getting into the squat is the easy part, getting back up is a bit trickier. The move that has worked best for me (and I’d love to hear other variations if you have something that works for you) is a simultaneous push with the paddle backwards while stepping your back foot back on the board. The paddle stroke is pushing you towards your tail, getting the board up on the water. This is a reverse coming out of the hole maneauver. Read the Seated Pop-Up Breakdown to understand coming out of the hole.
The objective is to get the board back to a neutral position, with your back foot far enough back to sink the tail. Your blade will be forward and if you have your nose pointed back up you can simply pull yourself back on top of the water. I’d suggest watching the video a few times to understand this technique.
Back foot is back and the tail is now high in the water, board is near horizontal. The next step is getting the weight back on the back foot and pulling on the paddle.
Almost out of the water, nose breaching. This is the end of the pull stroke.
Fully recovered, ready to catch the next wave.
I was reviewing some of the footage from the Oi Rio Pro, link goes to the WSL heat analyzer page, and this turn from John John jumped out. You can go watch the turn by selecting the Final and the wave is his first scoring wave, yellow.
I have no evidence that John John has been paddle surfing, but here’s a few interesting notes. He rides for Hurley… So does Kai Lenny and Noa Ginella. He lives close to Noa and they’re friends. Maybe one day, Noa and John were surfing out back together and John saw Noa blast a big ol’ left. Then John asked Noa, “man, how’d you do that?” And Noa said, “it’s all about throwing that weight back. With the paddle it’s easy, but I bet you could figure it out on that board you ride.” Then they probably went back and broke down some footage of Kai, Caio, and the rest of the Bush Boys and then John John went and used that turn to win a contest. I expect John’s buying a few beers for Noa and Kai in the near future…
Sounds probable, right?
Here’s where it starts to resemble a paddle hack. Notice that his weight is shifting to his back foot and body is counter-rotating. Most surfers lead with their front shoulder and hand, but to carve harder Johns going to throw is weight into the back foot.
In paddle surfing this will naturally happen when you carve off the lip with your paddle on the toe side. The pull that you do to sink the rail pulls your from shoulder away from the direction of the turn.
Here instead of pulling with the paddle, John’s throwing his front arm up to weight the tail. Notice his head looking back, not forward down the wave.
This is the frame, right here… Now let’s look at a few paddle surfers from Huntington Beach… about as bad as waves get, but able to produce sick turns because of the paddle.
Here’s Kai Lenny. Head placement. Foot placement. Weight. Momentum.
Same turn, but in waist high surf.
Poenaiki Raioha on his way to win the event.
World Champ, Caio Vaz.
Kai Bates, rising Aussie star.
Let’s finish that John John turn…
Actually, a paddle would have helped him here 🙂 He kind of gets stuck at the lip for a second and should have tweaked the turn farther with some enhanced paddle action.
I’m not saying that John’s really been training or modelling paddle surfing. I am saying that his best turn of the final at a world tour event is a paddle surfing turn from a mechanics perspective. Tough to hate on that…