Surf was a bit funky this morning and time was limited. Decided to paddle out back to the reef and get a few. Focused on keeping technique while paddling 80-90% in choppy water. I’m liking the kai return (read yesterday) and a focus of mine lately has been clean blade entry. Kalama pointed that when I was paddling hard for a wave I wasn’t fully burying my blade. This wasn’t the case in less stressful situations, so now I’m drilling proper technique at all opportunities. I time my paddle out normally and had a strong time today. It was a best, but the board I’m riding is a bit bigger than normal, 4 liters, so I’m not putting too much value on the time.
Surfing observation. Longer boards hold you back in less predictable surf. There was a weird side wave coming through the lineup this morning making peaks kind of all over the place. A shortboard would have been the call, or even a shorter SUP. Just tough to fit into little spots and react to sections. I did get a good one, one good turn and called it a day.
The way back in I decided to go all zen. The goal was to see how far I could go without a conscious thought. You can get into a rhythm and really feel the ocean. The best was probably around 15. Usually I’d have something pop up switching sides with the paddle.
Tomorrow or Tuesday I’m going to hop back on a smaller board and see how it feels. I am about 3 weeks right now, I don’t think I’ve missed a day, on the 7.9 Blurr. Probably go back to the 7.4 StarBoard tomorrow and see what happens.